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I feel your pain (and pleasure). I have an 01 Monster 750 that I bought brand new and promptly tricked out with every item from the Duc catalog. My son has always loved that bike and even though the thought has come for me to sell it, he knows that one day it will be his. I wish I could post a pic but as we all know, Photobucket.

Congrats dad!

Turning Wrenches / Re: [Rieju Mrt Pro 50 cc] Not going above 4-5000 rpm
« Last post by Alec_B on Today at 02:14:00 AM »
already did, it had no effect.

But maybe there is someone who can tell me what the sympthoms are for bad stator. :(

Have heard the same thing.  Had a later TZ125 frame as well.  Deltabox was majorly thin compared to the stuff built for street.  Should be worth a pretty penny even beat up!
Turning Wrenches / Re: Rd350 charging issues.
« Last post by enginear on Yesterday at 10:33:59 PM »
The RD400 regulator cannot be adjusted.  Even if it could, its thermally compensated for lead-acid batteries, so it probably can't do a very good job of keeping LiPo batteries happy.

I don't want to start a LiPo thread, but many folks believe you need a special regulator to keep LiPos happy and safe.  :flame:

Turning Wrenches / Re: Bead Blasting Cylinders and Heads
« Last post by cowens726 on Yesterday at 09:00:57 PM »
Not that I need to add to what Chuck said as he has far more experience than I do.  I used a basic siphon feed blaster in my homemade cabinet with medium glass beads and my jugs and heads turned out great when I did my R5.  I'm pretty sure I ran around 60 psi as well.  I taped most areas off that I was concerned about like you did but found that it wasn't really necessary with glass bead, it didn't remove any base material like traditional sand or "oxide" abrasives can. 
Turning Wrenches / Re: Rd350 charging issues.
« Last post by Clem on Yesterday at 08:53:14 PM »
Just a final report and a question at the end.  Everything came in, advantech 5k5 regulator, caltric RR109 reg/rect, and a pair of 50A diodes.  Only did the new rectifier first mostly because I suspected that it was the primary issue but also because the stock wires just barely reach the stock mount.  Cut them as long as possible and use your wire stretcher:)  Soldered them direct for now.

Another reason that I tried the basic solution first was that both the regulator and the reg rect will take a little creative mounting and rewiring.  Now that I understand how this all works, aside from making the connections and finding a place for the components, it is straightforward as described above.  I've got bigger fish to fry for now, tires and brakes for two.

Charging at 14.9 at 6000 rpm on the stand lights or no lights and comes up pretty quick from idle so it looks all good.  10 mile test, smoke still in the wires:)

Since I'm using a very small lifepo4 battery, I'd like to charge a little lower.  Is there supposed to be a screw on the stock regulator?

Thanks for all the help guys, headed over to dole out the karma now:)
Turning Wrenches / Re: Bead Blasting Cylinders and Heads
« Last post by The Red Scourge on Yesterday at 08:27:30 PM »
Thanks man!  I'll hit it tomorrow then!
Turning Wrenches / Re: Bead Blasting Cylinders and Heads
« Last post by SUPERTUNE1 on Yesterday at 08:07:22 PM »
I use medium glass beads, not just a course sand mix.
I have a air pressure regulator at the bead blast cabinet, set it to 60 PSI, and when doing more delicate stuff like pistons and small parts I set down to 40 PSI.
Tape is fine, i don't bother though, just careful not blasting hard on the special surfaces.
I do have a used/old set of misc bolts that I screw in every threaded hole to keep as much beads out of them.
A very interesting thread! The pictures of Tim's 400 crank makes me wonder why Yamaha used both a lead weight and the 2 lightening holes either side of the crank pin. Most cranks have either lightening holes or partially cut away crank webs (RZ 350, Vito's aftermarket cranks) or lead weights (like Chuck's 350 crank).
I am really curious why any crank would have both......

RD400 cranks have a longer stroke (62mm verses the 250/350 @ 54mm) and longer and slightly heavier connecting rod.
This is why the 400's use both lead balance and open holes on the rod crankpin side of the crank is needed for more weight requirement to balance out.

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