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1
Turning Wrenches / Re: FORK OIL QUESTION
« Last post by m in sc on Today at 09:27:02 AM »
get some 15 or 20 wt belray fork oil. i usually run 5 oz.
2
Turning Wrenches / FORK OIL QUESTION
« Last post by suey1958 on Today at 09:22:03 AM »
Gonna try to get my Forks back together tomorrow,...My old Clymer manual says 4.7 ounces of 10-30 fork motor oil.
Is that still the best option or should I use something different? (185 pound rider) Thanks
3
General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by Alain2 on Today at 08:21:13 AM »
nicks rearsets or joes.
if you must keep the motocarerra ones, lengthen the shifter arm, and you will need to modify. they are pretty bad and need to be updated/refined on the design, especially considering what they cost. .

I believe Moto Carrera are the only choice for the Daytona Special though.
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General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by m in sc on Today at 08:16:32 AM »
nicks rearsets or joes.
if you must keep the motocarerra ones, lengthen the shifter arm, and you will need to modify. they are pretty bad and need to be updated/refined on the design, especially considering what they cost. .
5
General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by Alain2 on Today at 07:51:24 AM »
I just installed a brand new set of Moto Carrera rear set on my Daytona Special. On of the box they are very disappointing, actually I could not even shift or brake. I had to drill, space, shim and grind to make them work.

One problem was the machining of the brackets where the bearings sit, when you tight the pegs on the bracket it binds the bearings to the brackets and therefore binds the levers. So I had two choices, run the pegs loose with poly-lock nuts or to drill the bracket and use spacers between the bearings. I decided to drill and shim. Now the pegs are tight and the bearings are working. The other problem was the adjusting rod of the shifter was hitting the bracket up shit and down shit no matter how I set it up. I had to grind the bracket and shim the lever and use spacers on the rod knuckles. 

6
General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by dalvipravin81 on Today at 07:29:36 AM »
I bought a universal rear set and used existing brake paddle and a local gear shifter and fabricated the plates and linkages ... will post pics for ref ... the leverage is definitely imp and I had to increase that by extending the shifter which attached the gear shifting rod.

Pravin
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General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by jrotten99 on Today at 07:18:55 AM »
My moto carrera rear sets are very hard shifting. Jspooner sells rear sets that shift smooth as shit. Joes work very well and are priced right.
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General Chatter / Re: Rear Sets
« Last post by dvsrd on Today at 06:52:50 AM »
I believe most rearset kits for RD350/400 will give a stiffer action than the stock setup, for a couple of reasons:
The stock RD gear pedal is quite long, while all rearset pedals are shorter, maybe as much as 2"/51 mm shorter. When the pedal arm and the shift shaft arm is equally long, that means you have less leverage.
Also, the "radial load" or "bearing load" on the shift shaft increases significantly, when going from a maybe 190 mm long pedal to a maybe 50 mm long arm for the linkage. So greasing the hole/ bushing in the RH side cover may help a bit. Or even installing a composite bushing/ bearing.
9
eBay/Craigslist watch / Re: BASSANI Exhaust Pipe Yamaha RD 350
« Last post by m in sc on Today at 06:49:02 AM »
agreed   250 would be fair
10
Turning Wrenches / Re: Keihin PWK jetting
« Last post by dvsrd on Today at 06:43:43 AM »
theres no changeable needle jet.

Good that I admitted lack of experience with PWK in my post :) Only Keihins I ever owned are the FCR39s on the Monster. And they were great right out of the box, only needed to set the idle.

I guess the PWKs must have a quite large needle jet, and a wide selection of needles.
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