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Author Topic: RD400--Slow Go  (Read 1284 times)

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Offline hayduke

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #15 on: October 02, 2017, 07:36:54 AM »
You can raise the front end, without the wheel, loosen the pinch clamps on the forks and rotate them in place, or use a plate of glass, or thick-ish lexan across both tubes. The manual had the steps to follow when messing with the forks/triples.


Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #16 on: October 09, 2017, 08:16:50 PM »
Well, seems the forks are straight. I rotated them after loosening the pinch clamps and they rotate freely. Good news for sure. Stripped it down a bit more . . . Now I guess Iím going to focus on the chassis. This is where my last project got too complicated and I never finished. Now I feel I have more skills to actually accomplish the build, but need a good old smack on the head to not go to deep. So Iíd like to do the front forks/brake first, then the swinger and rear brake.  After focus on the engine. I feel keeping focus on simplicity, beings Iím not racing, or doing anything but a fun project to tool around on, is most important.

Like the build titles goes, this is a fun slow go.

Couldnít post normal iPhone photos tonight, so no pics. Seemed to work before after resizing . . . Realizing I spend way more time on this forum trying to post pics than itís worth.

Offline teazer

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2017, 09:08:51 PM »
Why did you suspect the forks were bent.  What are you seeing and what have you checked?

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #18 on: October 10, 2017, 03:56:22 AM »
The bars were off when I started tear down. It seems there is a lot of bolts that are just snugged up but not tight, enough to be grateful Iím doing a tear down.  There was little effort getting the clamp bolts lossened up, so I suspect as stated before, it was just in need of adjustment from the previous owner.

Online kdsmf

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2017, 08:48:02 PM »
Glad it wasn't bent, you definitely want to save those pipes if possible.

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #20 on: October 31, 2017, 07:33:14 PM »
Finally got everything pulled apart. My first project is the front suspension. I have some rebuild parts coming from racetech. Excited about starting to solve the problems. So when i took off the fork caps, couldnít tell if they were goki, or dg, I think color is the only way? ?  Had 60mm spacers and blue painted springs. Iíve bought everything to replace, just because I donít have anyway to know for sure what Iím working with. Pics for fun.

Also had a question about fork lowers. I cleaned them all up, and was wondering if anyone kept them raw aluminum (not polished) with any luck. From my experience nothing really does well sticking to aluminum long term, and I love that raw look, but donít know if it would just end up looking like trash after a while. Any experience with this from anyone?

Apparently itís to hard for me to figure out how to post pics from my iPhone, or Iíd have them.

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2017, 07:48:23 AM »
Tried adding pics on my computer, hope this works.

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2017, 01:25:05 PM »
Well there goes another Holloween. . . . was fun this year, family came up and "invaded" our neighborhood.  So good to spend time with them. . .

As I wait for the few rebuild parts to come in, I think I've got the lowers cleaned up good enough for my liking.  I thought I'd do some glass beading, but I like the raw look and I think I've got a good "satin" finish on it. 

I was looking into replacing the upper clamp to something like this . . . is there a down side to this?  This is a fun bike not a street daily or anything. . . although I may try to get it kinda street legal to tool around the block with.  Seems to me these will maybe lower the front of the bike, but it may just be me seeing the piece in a picture. . . . Anyone have any experience with these? 

https://cognitomoto.com/products/billet-top-triple-clamp-rd400-kawasaki

Also I need to get some fork caps. . . any recoomendations out there that are priced right, but nice?  I found these? ?

https://www.economycycle.com/product-category/yamaha-rd250350400r5ds6ds7-parts/frame-related/suspension-yamaha-rd250350400r5ds6ds7-parts/fork-caps/

Thanks for any imput. . .




Online kdsmf

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2017, 04:20:42 PM »
The pre load caps are good choice, the upper triple will lower because have to push tubes up far enough to put clip ons on.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:25:28 PM by kdsmf »

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #24 on: November 10, 2017, 03:15:11 PM »
So I'm learning as I go here, and did search the website, but wanted to confirm a couple things.  I'm putting emulators in and have everything apart.  I'm confused about a couple things, in the first photo, the emulator sits here, and will recess down into it?  This is where I've got to get it on a lathe and take what looks like the Nub off and there seems to be a pin going through it as well.  Do I turn it down past the four holes, or just take the nub off, also the pin going through, I guess just dremel that out?  Sorry for not using the right terms, I'm not a machinist, although both my brothers and my dad are. . .lol. 

Also on the second pic, I've got 2 holes 3/4 up the shaft? I think I read something about some had this, some didn't, no need to do anything to them correct.

This all leads to me asking what year these forks are.  This bike seems pieced together and I'm nervous I'm not purchasing the right parts. . . .Thanks all.

Offline teazer

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #25 on: November 10, 2017, 04:42:54 PM »
Race Tech will sell you a pair of adapters with seals for very little money.  They sit on top of those rods and allow the emulator to sit inside the top side without obstructing flow. part number is (or was) FPEV AD3003P.

I cheated on the last set of forks I modified, they were E or F Euro forks and the damping rods are open at the top and had sealing rings.

For GT750 forks I had to use adapters to allow the emulators enough room.

Oil has to pass through the center of the emulator and down into the damping rod, so the top ends of those have to be drilled out. 

Those damper rods look like a set that are in  my TZ350E and not like the set in the RD350 forks but it's possible mine or yours have been messed with over the years.

Someone should be along shortly that can confirm.

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #26 on: November 10, 2017, 06:15:15 PM »
Called racetech, man those guys are awesome.  They just answered all my questions.  I looked on their website, just didn't find what they helped me find.  They have everything documented.  Cool guys. . .

Edit Below, just in case anyone else couldn't find it navigating the racetech page.  Don't know how I missed it.

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/DRod%202-10%20YAM%20YZ250%201977
« Last Edit: November 11, 2017, 08:10:43 AM by whiprsnapr »

Offline teazer

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #27 on: November 11, 2017, 02:34:48 PM »
Great link but what are those damper rods from on that Race-Tech page?  They look really long and I don't recall any top out springs.  Are they RZ perhaps?  Too many years since I stripped mine to fit new seals..

Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #28 on: November 12, 2017, 06:36:52 AM »
Thanks for bringing that up.  I was questioning if I would need top out springs as I couldn't find any reference to them.  Seems they are a yz fork or something similar.  Here is the previous page, just scroll down to "type 2".

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Damping%20Rod%20Gallery

Also something to note is that some places on this site I found people state that you should take the pin out, but racetech states to keep in in. 


Offline whiprsnapr

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Re: RD400--Slow Go
« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2017, 07:02:44 PM »
Can anyone tell me what these pieces are for.  They don't seem to make any sense in my head.  They kinda float between the bottom out cone and the top, below the fixed seal on the top.  They are in replace of what looks like a top out spring.   For some reason in my head they don't do anything.  Kinda looks like it helped assist how fast the oil traveled through.  Maybe it was a fix to a problem? ?

Thanks.