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General Chatter / Re: Long time since visited ,
« Last post by SoCal250 on Yesterday at 10:26:35 PM »
Hey Vaughn!  :hfive: Welcome back
General Chatter / Re: Long time since visited ,
« Last post by SUPERTUNE1 on Yesterday at 08:37:01 PM »
Miss you bro!!!
I'm back full time!!! :rock:

Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Turning Wrenches / Re: Rz350 wheels on rd400
« Last post by Blitzen on Yesterday at 08:35:33 PM »
I'm in Calgary, Canada   

Bitzz, where are the ones in Ontario? 

Shipping for the ones I've found from States is more than the price of the wheel, and one in classifieds says won't ship out if country
General Chatter / Re: Steel 520 sprockets
« Last post by SUPERTUNE1 on Yesterday at 08:33:39 PM »
I put over 5000 miles on my aluminum one from John at EC and no issues at all...just keep it lubed well...clean the rear wheel more often!

General Chatter / Re: Pistons
« Last post by SUPERTUNE1 on Yesterday at 08:27:15 PM »
Just buy the Banshee pistons and grind off the intake tang? It takes 5 mins max to file or grind it off...

Cheap enough. Just ask John for a set in the bore size you need.

Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
General Chatter / Pistons
« Last post by javadarkroast on Yesterday at 07:28:04 PM »
I thought Econmy cycle sold pistons for 73 Yamaha RD350 but I could not find them on the site , am I missing something ?

so what are the best least expensive pistons or the most value for the money pistons I can get ?
General Chatter / Re: Race Tech fork springs
« Last post by javadarkroast on Yesterday at 07:25:32 PM »
I have Racetech springs and Gold Valve Emulators in my RD350A.
Yes, the idea is that you cut the PVC into spacers, giving the preload (static sag)  you want. There is no specified length, as it depends on spring rate, bike and rider weight, and also on whether you have Emulators or not. The Emulators and adapters add about an inch of preload. One thing to watch out for is to install the steel washer that sits between the spring and PVC spacer, this will protect the PVC spacer from wear.

When it comes to oil, there is no definite answer either. The Race Tech spring has less volume, so as a starting point, slightly more oil than the stock amount should be used. Most people now goes by level, not quantity. You fill oil BEFORE sliding the spring into the fork. Starting with an assembled, drained fork without springs, fill to approx 130 mm from top of tube, with fork fully compressed. Then pump the fork up and down a few times, to get all air out, and check level again. top up if necessary. If you want a bit more progressive spring rate, add 10 or 15 mm more oil (this will increase the spring effect of the air getting compressed) Too much oil will make the fork near rigid.

I think you should try different oil levels, until you are satisfied with the results.

Thanks the bike is apart just putting it all together I think I'm going to put it together with the springs but with what yamaha says for oil and use the yamaha spacers until I have the engine in then figure out the sag and other details.
General Chatter / Re: Steel 520 sprockets
« Last post by hw9rd350b on Yesterday at 05:46:37 PM »
You can have steel rear sprockets made- not cheap..
  Front sprockets are steel & most all rears are Alo- due to cost.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Pressure Testing Vs Vacuum Testing
« Last post by hw9rd350b on Yesterday at 05:39:21 PM »
Leaks are bad!!!! 

Running tests I have done = Starter fluid squirted around and if idle goes up -leak. Impossible to get to cranks seals though. Only good for top end.. :twocents:

                           Crank seal Not sealing- seized 2 times.. That is a new seal

Seal was good, end of crank was worn beyond  limit...

Haus of Projects / Re: Project R5/RD
« Last post by hw9rd350b on Yesterday at 05:28:39 PM »
Love it!!!  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work

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