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Turning Wrenches / Re: RD250 crank halves, easy to assemble
« Last post by dvsrd on Yesterday at 11:21:18 PM »
   But there is more to it than just putting new parts on and pressing it together.  Clearly they have no idea that they must true the crank (and probably don't have the proper tools to do so), after it is pressed, or the flaw would have been obvious.  They may be great guys when it comes to beating on V8s with hammers, or to have a beer with, but I would just chalk up the wasted money as tuition to the school of 'lessons learned the hard way' and find a competent shop with experience in your type of crank. I know they race vintage in Australia, so there must be some resources.  :twocents:
The statement about the proper tools reminds me of a picture I saw: The late, great Jarno Saarinen (Yamaha factory rider in the early 70s), and another guy checking a TZ 250 or 350 crank for runout. Instead of a V-block. they had a TZ piston upside down in a vise, supporting the 2 center main bearings.
So a check could be done with just a vise, a dial gauge with magnetic foot, and an old piston. A proper V-block would obviously be better.
General Chatter / YR2 sprocket sizes...
« Last post by otr002 on Yesterday at 10:16:21 PM »
Ok gents, I've bought new sprockets for the YR to replace the current ones fitted. They were 15/41 (2.73).
Looking at the YRS owners book it gives the secondary ratio (which I assume is the final drive ratio i.e sprocket sizes??) as 2.47 which is a 15/37, is this the correct size? The service manual lists the size as 16/41 (2.56) for all YR's.

Any thoughts on the disparity, I won't be looking for top speed, but it would be nice to know the factory fitted sizes.

Haus of Projects / 77 RD400 Restomod
« Last post by organicjedi on Yesterday at 09:52:09 PM »
Iíve shared the story on this bike a few times and will put it down here to complete the thread. My dad passed his 77 RD to me after owning it since 1980. It was his first real motorcycle. His dad loaned him the money for it and died before my dad could pay him back so it became very meaningful to him. My dad rode it through the 80s and then moved on to another bike- a larger four stroke.

The RD sat stored in our garage until the mid 90ís when my mom used it to learn to ride. Eventually, the bike started having some issues with seizing on one cylinder and my mom wanted something smoother to ride so we again stored it in í98. It sat for another 17 years until I got some money together and got it running. I had a buddy help me go through the bike and get it road worthy. We fixed a short under the headlight, primed the oil pump, rebuild the forks, cleaned the carbs, and put a few of the replaceable items on like tires, fuel/ oil lines, etc and away I went for awhile.

Low and behold some gremlins began creeping up. Namely, the seizing on the left cylinder and then later rust in the fuel tank plugging up fuel filters. I realized I was going to need to have a lot more work done to get the bike up to par.

Thatís about the time I found this site. As awesome as this site is, it gave me a lot of ideas and a long list of things I wanted to do to make this bike better than brand new, in my own opinion at least.

Iím over a year into my project as I write this and a lot has been done. Itís worth mentioning the tremendous amount of help Iíve gotten from some good people such as Joe Spooner and Supertune Chuck. Youíll get to see their handiwork.

Below are some pictures of it after I first got it running. I'll add posts to document the whole process.

General Chatter / Re: Little Puppy
« Last post by Honolulu-Mike on Yesterday at 03:21:58 PM »
I love big dogs.  One of my dogs is a great dane.
Iím confused. That tank looks like Swiss cheese. Source another tank and save the time. Time is money. Halfway to a good tank if you save the caswell money.
The imbedded wobble and weave videos were very informative. Don't miss them.
Most of the information is repeated in the 2nd vid.
Note no Yamahas were shown in the test videos.
My RD400 started wobbling when the head bearings got worn (brinelled) due to either overtightening at the factory or normal wear. Fixed with new bearings.
My DS7 and 400 always seemed (to me) to be very stable bikes.  But I was never lighter than 160lbs.
Being large is a safety feature, who knew?  :lol:

They both will wobble (or weave?) if you significantly (24 case of beer) load the luggage rack and take your hands off the bars, otherwise pretty stable at all speeds.
I have to admit that when I used to drive WOT, I did lie down on the tank, which as it turns out, eliminates weave.

Who would go faster than the speed limit?  :laugh:  :cop:
General Chatter / Re: Loud pipe on a budget
« Last post by SoCal250 on Yesterday at 02:21:32 PM »
Hello all,
Been working on sealing pin holes on my 1975 RD125 gas tank.  Don't know if this is the right way to do it but it seems to be working. I am soldering the pin holes closed to be able to make a liquid tight tank to seal it on the inside and then after sealing go back and remove the solder with the wire wheel.  Here are some pics on my progress. 

I am curious why you remove the solder? (Assuming you are using soft solder tin) I have seen steel fuel tanks for cars that had pinholes repaired with a big soldering iron, back when chemical tank sealing compounds were not available. Also lead/tin was (maybe still is?) commonly used in automotive bodywork repair.
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