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General Chatter / Re: Typical parts suppliers excuses
« Last post by Clint Eastwood on Today at 06:35:39 PM »
And yet you keep buying from them?
It's the only place I found that distributes parts for 2011> models.

My bike's an 07 model.

2011> rear wheel bearings were upgraded to larger diameters for safety's sake.

2013> larger rear brake disc for safety's sake.

The swing arm, and 80% of everything connected to it had to be swapped to accommodate those updated designs.


2
Turning Wrenches / Re: My landspeed RD400 project. Lots of pics.
« Last post by m in sc on Today at 06:35:37 PM »
what a cool shot. glad you're sticking with this  :thumbsup:
3
Turning Wrenches / Re: 1972 cs5 issues, HELP!
« Last post by enginear on Today at 05:00:10 PM »
Assuming no air leaks, good idle fuel mix, and working timing advance unit you should be able to set the idle speed the following way.

First check that at just below 2000 RPM (1800 to 2000) the ignition advance unit weights should start to retract.  The idle will drop quickly.  At idle (1200 RPM) the weights are fully retracted.

You can watch the weights retract with a timing light.

Setting Idle Speed
Make sure handlebars are pointed straight ahead.
After warming up, I set the idle by connecting one plug to a dummy grounded plug (to prevent damaging coil) and set the working side to about 1000 rpm (just above stalling), by adjusting the idle speed screw (NOT air screw).  Then repeat for other side.
With both plugs firing, idle should be around 1200.

When done, make sure with throttle closed there is about 1mm carb cable free play (at each carb) and about 1mm free play at the throttle cable.

In our RD200 (with reed valves), as soon as we raise the throttle (even a little bit) it will quickly jump to around 2000 RPM because the ignition advance kicks in.
4
eBay/Craigslist watch / Re: RZ Solo Tail
« Last post by kdsmf on Today at 04:04:41 PM »
He has a yellow RZ tank for sale as well. Anyone have experience with this guy? Wondering if I can trust the tank. I need one.
Did you buy it?
5
General Chatter / Re: Typical parts suppliers excuses
« Last post by Redbird on Today at 03:30:21 PM »
I frequently purchase Aprilia parts from a company...
They always fail...
And yet you keep buying from them?
6
Outer bearings are shot. Yes that tool will work. They need to be pressed on.
7
Does it sound like the outer bearings (at least 1 of them) needs to be replaced? I know sound isn't always a sign of failure, but this one is pretty noisy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wsXt-2c8og

Would this work fine for pulling the bearings off?: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/19017/Tusk-Crank-Bearing-and-Gear-Puller-Set

And for installing new bearings, can I put the crank in the freezer overnight, heat the bearings in the oven them just slide them onto the crankshaft, or will the job require other specialized tools?

Never done this before so this is all new to me
8
Haus of Projects / Re: 76' RD400 Geneva Green: Rescue Mission
« Last post by m in sc on Today at 01:45:56 PM »
coming together.. home stretch!!  looking good.  :thumbsup:
9
Turning Wrenches / Re: RD400F and RD400G Canadian coil test
« Last post by Zedixe13 on Today at 12:36:06 PM »
Also the LC and first gen. RZ share the same coils .
10
Haus of Projects / Re: 76' RD400 Geneva Green: Rescue Mission
« Last post by AimlessMoto on Today at 09:29:41 AM »
Got my O-rings in but they're the wrong size... they're the right Yamaha part number according to BikeBandit, but they are too loose... the ID is too wide, as is the OD, causing them to be floppy on the needle and not wanting to push into the hole.

I took it upon myself to order two COMPLETE Air needle kits from Boats.net. Yes... Boats.net. $4 a piece, with spring and o-ring, and they-too are genuine Yamaha parts.

Yeesh.
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