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General Chatter / Re: New smoker!
« Last post by Czakky on Today at 04:05:30 PM »
Engine seal kit will be added to the list. I pulled the plugs yesterday and was very pleasantly surprised at the near perfect color!
I would like to make her handle better but without losing the nostalgic ride. For sure proper fork springs (probably racetech) was also thinking about the "gold emulators". Any opinions? Hagons for the rear?
Any suggestions on tires?
Race Discussions / Dirt Drag Rome Ga
« Last post by Todd Horton on Today at 03:33:41 PM »
I got the RD350 rideable on Friday the 19th and carried it to a dirt drag in my home town on the following Saturday. I ended up winning two classes, vintage and open knobby.  I had to run a ZX1100 and a KZ1000, I put them both out and then grudged raced the ZX1100 again for fun.

The carbs were flooding (new needles and seats on the way) but it did well considering.
Turning Wrenches / Re: 71 R5 gearbox dipstick
« Last post by Czakky on Today at 01:21:22 PM »
Thanks guys. I was wondering what the PO did to cause so much oil to blow out the breather. Super short dipstick...
Turning Wrenches / Re: 71 R5 gearbox dipstick
« Last post by deckheight on Today at 10:52:59 AM »
R5 Oil change procedure around here is drain old oil, re-fill with 1500cc of new oil and ride the bike. I don't even bother checking oil level immediately after oil change anymore. For routine oil level checks with engine cold I screw in dip stick and it always reads right at top of fill range.

Hot engine will probably read higher so probably like jrotten describes?   
Events / Re: Time for the 2stroke Deals Gap meet May 21-28th 2017.
« Last post by Mgmark on Today at 10:32:44 AM »
Good riding on Monday! Nice to see some of the guys from the 2-stroke forums.
Turning Wrenches / Re: 71 R5 gearbox dipstick
« Last post by jrotten99 on Today at 09:58:25 AM »
Not screwed in. Wipe it off set it down on top of case and check level.
Turning Wrenches / Re: 71 R5 gearbox dipstick
« Last post by Czakky on Today at 09:04:23 AM »
Bloody fantastic! That would explain it then. I will double check my measurements and probably pour a little out. Thanks Deckheight. Level is checked screwed in?
Turning Wrenches / Re: 71 R5 gearbox dipstick
« Last post by deckheight on Today at 08:53:39 AM »
R5 dip stick length is 4 3/4" total from where it seats on the case (top of threads) to the bottom. High oil level mark is 1/2" up from the bottom.
Haus of Projects / 1974 ke125
« Last post by ben on Today at 08:31:17 AM »
This is my first bike on this forum. The restoration is finished and its time to get rid of it. I would not do another this way. It runs perfect. Starts first kick always. Its just Iíve gone beyond stock ignition systems. Repaired the stock ignition system because I did not know any better at that point in time, now I do. If I was to do it again I would do it differently.

My first real bike was an 10hp Ď67 rotary valve cz trail 90. Was bitten by the 2 stroke bug at age 15. Mid life crisis forced me to get another. It was an absolute piss to ride. Itís a street bike well designed. There was a tube over the chain in the pipe so oil drips on the chain from the exhaust to keep it lubed. 55 on the highway. First gear was the trail part. Insane in 1st when 10 ponies kick in. Climb any hill. Vertical stromberg carb with a tickler. Gave up looking because they are gone. Got a rotary valve ke125 and streeted it to run like the jawa. Rotary valve although antique is a good design for 2 strokes. Rotary valve engines works way better than piston port designs and almost as good as reeds. No outer seal on the transmission side is a +. That is where the carb is at with this design. My only regret is that its not the 250. This is my third season as a daily beater. For short trips 20 miles or less its perfect for the urban environment.

Bought this bike for 150$ on a ebay auction. Joined this forum. The shift fork return spring was broken and obsolete. This part number no longer sold so this project stayed in a basement for years stuck in gear. Got a new shift shaft spring from ebay. Took a chance and ordered one from the sellers pic. It looked real close. Used a grinder to fit. Spring steel that hardness cuts easy with a grinder. Used the broken spring as the shaft spacer. This was my first repair of this antique. The gearing was the second. This bike also no longer has rear sprockets anywhere I needed it to be for the top speed in 6th. The bolt pattern is obsolete. Got a pit bike 428 34T sprocket. Again from the pic on ebay and the sellers description bought one where it looked like I could drill new holes to fit. This thing is so fucking hard I could not even scratch the surface with my high speed drill. It was harder than the materal the bits were made from. Laid it down on my gas stove and let it glow cherry for 10 minutes. Turned the gas off and let it sit a couple of hours on the stove top till cool. Still hard but slowly I got the holes drilled. Not as dramatic as the show forged in fire but just as entertaining. If youíve never tampered with temper you are not doing it right. Never tamper with temper is a bullshit mechanics rule. There is a time and place.

All my streetcross bikes get built the same way. Re-geared and ballanced . New wheel bearings. DOT tires. Bicycle bars for lane splitting. Turn signals turned in. Headlight switches removed. No switches means none of those stupid connections in the headlight bucket. No bucket or ears. Its a clean look. The goal is to have as narrow a profile as possible and keep the rpmís just below 5k. The bottom of 6th on the pipe is 53 mph at 5k. The bike specs on the internet say the ke125 has a top speed of 58. I get 63 from mine. The airbox is gone as well as the baffles. The pipe is still in place. I have no problem riding the FDR drive during rush hour. Makes city traffic almost enjoyable. Easily passes sports cars stuck in traffic while riding like a moped at 25mph and 2.5k. Ride like this anytime the president is in town. Been bitter sweet on this fourm. How people can argue against principles learned in collage physics is fucking amazing. Some canít read. The extra 5mph is from getting rid of the rim locks to balance the tires. How do I know this? I know this because I rode a couple of thousand miles this way. Itís just so much faster than the year I rode with them in and 55 was my top speed. This is my third season and my experience.

The ignition coil ran fine when cold but after warm up the bike woluld stall at lights. It really ran like shit the first year. You donít want to get stuck at a light in NYC ever. Ordered a bunch of different igniton coils, none worked. Emgo, Vespa 12v, 12v with points. Bought one from each of the 3 search results. None of them worked. Finally used a 1980 nissan sentra coil I had in the 90ís. Ignitions need to be 40watts or so to work with an ignition coil. The moral of the story is I should have gone with ford tractor first. No internal resistor is best because you dont wire it into a battery. If it has one it still works. The stock ignition system is stupid simple. It runs on unregulated AC with the points intermittantly shorting out the AC collapsing the field and firing the coil. The reason the coil does not blow up is because the output of its dedicated stator is balanced to 40watts and it is not connected to a battery. Many bikes from the 1960ís to 1974 ran AC ignitions. That ended with the invention of the transistor and the death of ignition points. Thick blue spark. I only occasionally stall out but now its clutching. No regrets for the last 2 seasons. I always ride it like I stole it.

6 to 12v conversion. Will get its own thread. This thread is how this ke got legal. Stator repair is important to know. Stock stators can be easily re-wired. If you want to step up with the big boys it has to get done at some point. We live in a 12v automotive world and all the new stuff works on 12v. This is not how I did mine, but it will work on yours. Iím saying a modern cheapo 4 wire r/r will work if you run stock AC ignition. Iím telling how I got this bike street legal. I wonít explain the theory. I will tell how its done. What you need is steady 12v at idle. Only 1 stator coil is needed to run led lights. Amazing how loud the horn is at idle with the lights on with this re-wire. There are 3 stator coils the one that used to be for the taillight is not connected. You only need to re-wire the headlight lighting coi. One wire in the stator to unground and the whole project is done. There are so many bikes this repair will work on. The IT,DT series, KE, KD, KH series TS, TY all up to 1974 as well as 4 strokes of the same period.

Turn signal relay. Motorcyle flashers are different than car flashers because cars always run large batteries. Bikes do not. 21watts at idle is nothing for a car but too much for this bike. Most automotive flashers wonít flash at the right speed or at all. The exception is the led type 3 wire flasher. Had a chepo  ebay 2 wire that would not flash led only. Ran 5w regular bulbs in the back turn signals. 5w is the minimum current needed to get this flasher working. removed. The front ke turn signals are led. So the whole signal uses 5.2watts.I had junk left over from my honda. The rear flashers on the ke are the front signals from the honda with the spacers removed.

The only other mod was to cut the ignition stator coil wire from the condenser and bring it out of the stator. I run it to the coil +. One crusty old man chased me over the bridge and complained. Every one else gets it. Bikers all get it. Turns heads. Hipsters on triumpths get it. Dudes stuck in traffic in expensive cars scratch their head. Every ride has a mad max feel except over the queensboro bridge into queens. Then I feel like escape from NY. The upper roadway is like an E ticket disney ride into manhattan.

General Chatter / Re: New smoker!
« Last post by The Plasticman on Today at 08:27:19 AM »
I'd change out all the case seals with new ones.  Seals are $55 and it's only about a 4 hour job in your garage. Well worth the time spent versus having to replace the top end due to a seizure.

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