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Author Topic: New Member - RV90 Restore  (Read 1746 times)

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Offline PolarIce

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    • Location: ABQ, NM
New Member - RV90 Restore
« on: November 18, 2013, 03:13:13 PM »
New Member here to 2strokeworld. Glad to be here. I'm no stranger to internet forums and I guess it all depends on what I'm working on at the time. So.. I'm on, hondaspree.net, kz400.com and ADV Rider. I've learned that there is help for every project and look forward to interacting with the group. Here's why I joined....

Just picked this up from the local humane society donation site. Old guy had it picked up at his home, provided the key and the 1975 dated title for it. I'm crossing my fingers they will let me keep the 1972 plate. 1900 miles or so.

I didn't know where else to share my 2 stroke madness other than here. So... Now I have something to do this winter.





1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline daxman

  • Zamfir: Master of the Pan Flute
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    • Location: UK
Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2013, 03:22:47 PM »
Hi

Well done ! Thats what I think they call a van-van (well they do over here) and they fetch good money in Europe. The original like yours has an engine pretty much the same as the A100 (go-fer) I'm working on.
There is also a lame four stroke 125 replica about.these days I believe they were originally intended for sand use hence the balloon rear tyre.

Looks decent order too.

Cheers
Now: A100 & XJ550 (basket case)

Then: FZS600, XJ600, Laverda Alpina, XJ550, XL250, RS200,  FS1-E

Offline cobraace

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2013, 12:14:06 PM »
Rely nice I wish mine was that complete congrats

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2013, 10:02:00 PM »
Man... this thing is crazy dirty. It's a mixture of 2 stroke oil and fine NM sand. Rinse and repeat several times over. I guess the old guy lost the oil cap? He put in aluminum foil to keep the oil in... yeah that worked like a champ.

I got a new oil cap and put it into place.







Here's the miles.



Up on the lift for tear down.





Did I mention how crusty this thing is.. I think I'll just cut this thing off. It would take me forever just to find the master link behind all this gunk and I'm sure this chain is not worth saving.







Never worked on a carb inside the engine. Cool design, pain in the butt to work on. Super clean in here but I'm guessing there's a mess in the float bowl.





And... here it is.. Varnish city. Man it smells bad, it's still on my hands after 4 hours..





This air cleaner must've been home to some critters. Found what appear to be pinion nuts inside, a local favorite. Air filter is shot of course, just fell apart.







Here's the carb in AFTER mode. I'm getting pretty good at this now.



Stay tuned for more, I'm borrowing the neighbor's pressure washer and hit it hard. Don't worry I won't get it in the motor or intake or any of the vital areas.


1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline daxman

  • Zamfir: Master of the Pan Flute
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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2013, 06:13:28 AM »
Nice job on the carby - can I ask what you cleaned it with. On my (standing 14 years) A100 it appeared full of oil and was pretty crusty too with unidentifiable residues. Didn't get it as spick and span as yours though..

Cheers

J

Now: A100 & XJ550 (basket case)

Then: FZS600, XJ600, Laverda Alpina, XJ550, XL250, RS200,  FS1-E

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2013, 11:11:22 AM »
Nice job on the carby - can I ask what you cleaned it with. On my (standing 14 years) A100 it appeared full of oil and was pretty crusty too with unidentifiable residues. Didn't get it as spick and span as yours though..

Cheers

J

Thanks for the kudos. Here's what I'm using. Most of that was still in a gel form so not as bad as the hard build up you normally find.

1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2013, 01:37:59 PM »
Did I mention how nasty dirty this thing is? I lugged most of it over to a DIY car wash and the caked on oil/sand just "laughed" at the pressure wand.

So... I'm stuck chipping away at it. So far a non-toxic oven cleaner has been my best friend, that and some $1 dollar store pot scrubbers.

Check this out after I cut the chain off and took the front sprocket cover off, I'm surprised the gear even moved with all this muck in here.





I got the rear rim off and separated the "halfs" only to find quite a bit of water and rust. Going to need to sandblast these I think.







I'll keep chipping away until I have something better to post. Wish me luck.




Who likes Before and After PICS?

THIS GUY!

I had Xmas Eve day off and hit the cleaning hard on this one.



Here's the bottom, I forgot to take a pic before spraying on the oven cleaner but basically wherever you see white foamy stuff is where there was oil/sand filth.



Here's some AFTER shots.







Still working.... need to get those wheels blasted and repainted, buy some tubes for the tires and maybe we can do a test fire.
1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline Bigshankhank

  • Crawling Along the Edge of a Straight Razor
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    • Location: Near Houston, TX
Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2013, 06:30:25 AM »
Man, I am super jealous your oil lines are in such good shape!  My '70 TC90 had a seized pump, and the lines were solid gunk from banjo to banjo, but yours look brand new.  It took me two days to clean them out.   :bang:
Nice job on cleaning it all up, should turn out really nice.  I wish my local Humane or Goodwill got stuff like that dropped off, I'd go with my wife more often 
Nothing Interesting to Say
1976 Kawasaki KE100
1978 Kawasaki KE250
A Four Stroke Honda
A Four Stroke Italian Harley

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2013, 08:07:01 AM »
Man, I am super jealous your oil lines are in such good shape!  My '70 TC90 had a seized pump, and the lines were solid gunk from banjo to banjo, but yours look brand new.  It took me two days to clean them out.   :bang:
Nice job on cleaning it all up, should turn out really nice.  I wish my local Humane or Goodwill got stuff like that dropped off, I'd go with my wife more often

Thanks for the reply. I am fortunate enough to find some good stuff underneath the gunk, we'll call it a "protective layer" of 2stroke and sand I reckon. If I understand my research properly, the 2 stroke oil is directed at the bearings in the motor and despite some people wanting to go to pre-mix it's NOT A GOOD IDEA with this model. My question is does the 2 stroke oil "circulate" through the system and back to the bearings? or is it burned off at the piston?

If anybody knows I'd be happy to listen.
1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline Bigshankhank

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2013, 09:03:46 AM »
If I remember the oiling diagrams correctly, the typical Suzuki CCI system does not recirculate, but burns off the oil in combustion, even that which is sent directly to the crank bearings.  You are correct that removal of the pump is a sure way to wear out your bearings.  As it so happened with my TC, the pump was run dry which allowed it to seize, but the bearings must have been pretty robust because they are still in good working order.   
Nothing Interesting to Say
1976 Kawasaki KE100
1978 Kawasaki KE250
A Four Stroke Honda
A Four Stroke Italian Harley

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2013, 10:33:50 AM »
If I remember the oiling diagrams correctly, the typical Suzuki CCI system does not recirculate, but burns off the oil in combustion, even that which is sent directly to the crank bearings.  You are correct that removal of the pump is a sure way to wear out your bearings.  As it so happened with my TC, the pump was run dry which allowed it to seize, but the bearings must have been pretty robust because they are still in good working order.

Thanks again for the reply. How did you "test" the system? or confirm that oil was flowing? I haven't gone through a start up on this project yet.
1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline Bigshankhank

  • Crawling Along the Edge of a Straight Razor
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    • Location: Near Houston, TX
Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2013, 11:12:34 AM »
To test it (and there are others who may have a better method) remove the throttle cable, the oil feed from the tank to the pump and the two lines to the bearings from the pump, remove the pump from its chamber (should be two screws holding it in place), reconnect the feed from the tank to the pump.  You may have to replace the oil feed line with a longer one to give yourself some more room to work.  Using either a small zip tie, or some mechanic's wire, secure the throttle actuator (I'm sure there's a better name for this) in a fully open position.  On the back of the pump there is a small flat stud which is the driveshaft for the pump mechanism.  A small battery powered drill with a hand chuck (not the keyed type, its too easy to put too much torque on it) can grab that flat stud, then spin the drill.  You may have to observe the rotation of the output drive on the engine (where the pump was mounted) to determine which direction to spin the pump driveshaft, either forward or reverse.  There will be a specification in the owner's manual for how much oil should pump over a period of time, however I've never bothered to precisely measure it on any of my two strokes.  In my very non-scientific experience, there won't be a tremendous amount of oil that will come out of a properly working pump, it is typically measured in the mL if not a smaller unit.  As such, if you have what you judge to be a steady flow, the pump is probably OK.  If the flow is intermittent or just barely eeking out, then you should replace the pump.  Again, this has been my shadetree experience, and I'm sure the purists will claim that I am shortening the life of my bikes/giving terrible advice/etc all doomsaying.  However most of mine have been toys, neighborhood knock around bikes and don't see a lot of miles, but they have never let me down.  Choose your own path. 
Nothing Interesting to Say
1976 Kawasaki KE100
1978 Kawasaki KE250
A Four Stroke Honda
A Four Stroke Italian Harley

Offline ninjamk

  • Underwater Basket Weaver
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    • Location: Port Washington, WI
Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2013, 03:43:35 PM »
+1 on hanks advise.  That is the same way I prime my oil pumps.  Don't expect oil to come out right away, a few that I have don't took a couple minutes before it would prime.
Bikes: 2003 Bandit 1200, 1972 TS250 (undergoing TM250 conversion), 1974 RV125, 1988 RM250

Offline PolarIce

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Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2014, 11:10:46 AM »
To test it (and there are others who may have a better method) remove the throttle cable, the oil feed from the tank to the pump and the two lines to the bearings from the pump, remove the pump from its chamber (should be two screws holding it in place), reconnect the feed from the tank to the pump.  You may have to replace the oil feed line with a longer one to give yourself some more room to work.  Using either a small zip tie, or some mechanic's wire, secure the throttle actuator (I'm sure there's a better name for this) in a fully open position.  On the back of the pump there is a small flat stud which is the driveshaft for the pump mechanism.  A small battery powered drill with a hand chuck (not the keyed type, its too easy to put too much torque on it) can grab that flat stud, then spin the drill.  You may have to observe the rotation of the output drive on the engine (where the pump was mounted) to determine which direction to spin the pump driveshaft, either forward or reverse.  There will be a specification in the owner's manual for how much oil should pump over a period of time, however I've never bothered to precisely measure it on any of my two strokes.  In my very non-scientific experience, there won't be a tremendous amount of oil that will come out of a properly working pump, it is typically measured in the mL if not a smaller unit.  As such, if you have what you judge to be a steady flow, the pump is probably OK.  If the flow is intermittent or just barely eeking out, then you should replace the pump.  Again, this has been my shadetree experience, and I'm sure the purists will claim that I am shortening the life of my bikes/giving terrible advice/etc all doomsaying.  However most of mine have been toys, neighborhood knock around bikes and don't see a lot of miles, but they have never let me down.  Choose your own path.

Thanks Hank. Appreciate the advice and write up. Should be a no brainer.
1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97

Offline PolarIce

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    • Location: ABQ, NM
Re: New Member - RV90 Restore
« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2014, 09:38:04 AM »
Still cleaning over here. Once I get the wheels to/from the sand blaster I should be able to get a "test run" going.

Otherwise I'm just cleaning and checking. Went through both of the switches and found plenty of dirt, dead insects and corroded brass terminals.

Got em all cleaned up and switching good. (sorry no pics)

Otherwise this fender was bugging me, so I cleaned it up, knocked down the surface rust and painted the bottom with some bedliner spray.







Cleaned up the exhaust and went to work on the chrome. Brasso to the rescue, still surprised how well this works, even takes out the rust, there's some scratches in there but I'm happy with the outcome.







Finishing up the weekend, I routed new gas lines with in line filters (of course) - Took care of the main and the reserve lines.



That's the update for now.
1986 Honda Iowa Spree SOLD
1988 Elite LX 50 SOLD
1983 Urban Express SOLD
PolarIce=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USCGC_Polar_Sea_%28WAGB-11%29
Served Onboard 94-97