Engine
From Suzuki RV Wiki
All RV engines (the two-stroke ones anyway) are relatively similar. All use reed valves to extract the most power from their small displacement, all inject oil directly into the main bearings for longevity (this is important!), and all run a 6-volt electrical system.
I will address some common areas of concern with RV's first.
Contents |
The Autolube (CCI) System
All two-stroke RV's come with Suzuki's CCI autolube system. This system varies the amount of two-stroke oil that is injected into the motor based on engine speed and throttle position (which is also a good indicator of engine load when compared with engine speed). This system is historically very reliable, but of course CCI failures are not unheard of.
If your CCI has failed, you have two choices, you can premix gas and oil, or you can scrounge around on the web and find a new pump, or parts to rebuild your current one.
I highly recommend replacing or repairing your CCI pump. While you can of course run premix, the oil delivery system is designed such that one of the oil lines leads into the bottom end bearings, constantly supplying them with oil. The bike will run on premix, but is at much more of a risk for damage.
The clutch
Clutch springs
RV's are known for having slippery clutches. There are a couple of solutions for this. One, if your clutch isnt slipping that badly is to run actual motorcycle oil or diesel oil. These types of oils dont have friction modifiers like standard automotive oil does, and they can cure slipping. Regular automotive oil generally gets thrown in these bikes somewhere along the line, and that can lead to slipping.
The second, and more realistic option is to adjust the clutch springs. Please reference the image and part numbers pictured to the right. The clutch springs (10) actually screw into the clutch hub body (4), and are often installed pretty loosely from the factory. If you remove the right side case cover, you will see the clutch basket (1) and hub (4). First, you must pull all of the pins (11) by pulling the clutch springs slightly outward to release tension on the pins. The pins should then slide out. Once all the pins are out, remove the clutch cover (9). Then remove the clutch plates (7) and disks (8). You can then slide out the clutch release bar (15), and remove the drum nut (5) and hub lockwasher (6). The hub should then side out.
I believe the factory intended for the clutch springs to be screwed in until they are flush with the back face of the clutch hub. you will probably find that some are flush, some are loose and some are tight. This is what leads to the RV slippery clutch syndrome.
What you want to do is twofold. Firstly, you want to make sure that all the springs are screwed to an even depth in the hub. Secondly, you want to make them tighter than stock. This means that you want them to stick out of the rear face of the clutch hub slightly. I have mine set to around a thread and a half sticking out of the rear of the hub. You want to watch how deep you go however, because if you screw the springs in too far they will rub on the clutch basket. Set the screws to a depth of one thread sticking out of the back of the hub, then put the hub back on the bike.
If you push on the hub, you will notice that there is some play in the shaft that the hub rides on. To make sure the springs dont hit the basket, you will need to push the hub in to take up the extra play, then rotate it one full turn to make sure nothing rubs. If any of the springs rub on the basket, you will need to take the hub off, back all of the springs out a small (and equal) amount, then put the hub back on and test for rubbing again.
If you push on the hub, and there is no rubbing, you can screw all the springs in a bit until you get rubbing, then back them off, but honestly, if you set them to one thread out and there is no rubbing you should be fine.
Clutch Plates
The clutch plates (number 8 in the clutch image) also become smoothed and lose their grip as they are used. Often times by the time an RV reaches your hands, the clutch plates will be very smooth. One good way to stop slipping, and make for better clutch bite is to rough up the faces of the plates with sandpaper. You dont want to gouge them but just take the glaze off the faces of the plate, and give it some texture.
Be sure to thoroughly clean and oil the plate before putting it back in the motor.
Also note that the clutch plate cover (9) actually has a clutch plate welded to it.
Results
I have put one season on my correctly adjusted clutch, and deglazed clutch plates, and they have worked great all season. At first they almost work too well. The clutch was pretty grabby at first, but as the plates wear down a bit, it gets more manageable. The bike can take any kind of clutchwork you can throw at it without slipping, once you get it adjusted correctly.
